Windshield Adjuster Assembly ( ST1300 ) *

[KoTAOW]

Submitted by Paul R. Buettner, STOC #3499

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Windshield Adjuster Assembly ( ST1300 )

This is not a tech article as much as information about and a look at just what is inside.

Some of what is contained I do not recommend you attempt but I have included so you can get a better idea as to how the adjuster is constructed and how it operates.

There are no parts available to repair a damaged adjuster and as far as I know all attempts to repair have yielded only temporary fixes.

My adjuster lasted 9 years and 80,000 miles before I pressed the switch one day and only one side moved cocking the windshield. I managed to get the shield straight before disarming the switch hoping to stop the damage before it was terminal.

In reality once your windshield cocks to one side the damage is done and replacement is called for.

A couple of things can help the longevity of the adjuster:

• Clean the slides every time you are in the area.
• Grease the slides.
• Think about what you are about to do every time you hit the button.

My new adjuster came with what I originally thought was very little grease. After replacing the assemble and taking the broken one apart I am now convinced that too much grease will do as much damage as no grease. The adjuster has a built in wiper to remove grease from area but I think this creates a problem in another.

After taking one apart I would recommend a light coat of grease on the rails and I also recommend the cover at the gear/cable junction be removed and an even lighter application of grease be applied here. Based on what was on the new adjuster standard wheel bearing grease should be used on the rails and a spray-on White Lithium grease should be used at the gear/cable junction.

When to grease?
I think every time you are in the area. That meaning anytime the adjuster is exposed because you have the Windscreen Cowl removed or once a year whichever is the shorter time. If you use the adjuster frequently or it is exposed to dusty conditions you will want to shorten the time between cleaning and re-greasing.

The adjuster should run smoothly and be fairly quiet. If your adjuster becomes jerky in its movement of you are hearing any noise other than the adjuster motor running I would recommend cleaning and re-greasing immediately.

If you have a windshield larger than stock you should pretty much start saving for a new adjuster. If you like to adjust your windshield at highway speed you should double the amount you are saving. No amount of cleaning or grease will prevent gear/cable damage with a +4” windshield adjusted at speed.

I find these this type brush to be convenient for applying grease to the rails; they also work great applying Moly 60 to the rear wheel splines. Most auto parts stores or Harbor Freight will carry them, may be called Acid Brush.


Where to grease?
Take a close look at the black nylon piece that holds the windshield brackets on your adjuster. You will notice it is in contact with the rail in only two places. Lightly grease the cable located in the groove and the flat edge of the chrome rail.


This is the underside of the chrome rail. Lightly grease all three sides of this groove.


These are really the only places that require grease on the adjuster.

The remainder is pretty much for your information, a look inside so to speak.

There is one other place I think should be lubricated for the more adventurous, at the end.

I mentioned a built in wiper. I believe it is installed to remove excessive grease from the cable to insure it moves through the guide tube smoothly. It is a fairly close fit making a fairly tight bend so it is tight and excessive grease could bind the cable causing problems with the gear/cable junction.

I would apply grease to the cable very sparingly as much for corrosion protection as lubrication.


The gear/cable junction box, left side, and the adjuster motor with the gear attached.


The gear. You can see exactly where the two cables run and the damage to the gear.


There were reports of plastic gears. I found no plastic gears in my adjuster.

The gear removed from the motor.


The cable removed from its guide tube.


One other place to lubricate, for the truly inspired.

I found little to no grease in the cable/gear junction.

I think heavy grease might cause a problem here so I am using spray-on White Lithium grease in this area. I foresee no harm and I will know if it works at a later date.

This is what you find once the cover is removed.

DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES.

The cables will be synchronized to each other to insure both sides of the windshield will move together.

Removing one or both of the cables could disrupt the sync and getting them back together is difficult.


I used White Lithium here because it was a spray-on and had some penetrating ability. It is slightly thinner than wheel bearing grease and I did not want to gum up the cable inside of the tube. It repels water even though water should not be a problem inside this case. It offers lubrication and that was lacking when I opened the cover. It will be the next time I have the nose off before I know if it does any good but it is better than what I had.


Thank You again for your contribution Paul R. Buettner, STOC #3499

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Comments by WJ Bertrand, STOC #25:
I wonder how many windscreen mechanism failures are associated with aftermarket vs, OEM windscreens?  Some of the aftermarket ones present quite a bit more frontal area to wind pressure than the OEM.  That would put a lot more load on the motor when trying to make an adjustment while underway.

Additional comments by Paul R. Buettner, STOC #3499:
It makes some sense a taller/wider shield would strain the mechanism but personally I believe until the plastic gets grossly oversize more damage is done by lack of lubrication than size.

The mechanism should run quietly and very smoothly.  Any groans, moans, or jerky movement is a sure sign of damage being done and impending failure.

I always thought I had maintained mine adequately and showed some restraint as to raising/lowering the shield at speed headed into the wind but alas it failed.  After seeing how it is made I am somewhat surprised it works at all for any length of time.