Fork Seals R&R Report ( ST1100 ) **

[KoTAOW]

Written by Marty Turner, STOC 7932:

Fork Seals R&R Report

We started by following the wonderful instructions in the tips post and
referred to Honda Service Manual.

Doing this job with a buddy will make for a lot less headaches.

We started by pulling the brake assembly off and tying off back to the lower
fairing to keep them out of the way - See photo link



Next we didn't have an impact wrench to remove the lower hex bolts but came
up with and idea to use the long hex bit and slide it into a 6mm socket with
ratchet wrench and 16" pipe and crescent wrench for added leverage - See
photo link



Snap, crackle, pop the bolts came loose :-)

The next thing that was not real well documented was the that the dust seals
need to be dug out with a small flat screw driver and the fork tube
protectors just pop off with some tapping on the bottom with a flat screw
driver and a hammer. - See photo link



If you have progressive springs make sure the tight wound part of the
springs goes up (opposite of what the Service Manual says for standard
springs)

We used a super accurate liquid measuring pitcher instead of measuring oil
level and then having to add or stuck oil out.
I also used Amsoil synthetic "Shock Therapy Suspension Fluid #10"

Also consider using lock tight instead of over torquing the screw that holds
the cheap plastic housing for the speedo cable.  We broke mine and had to
epoxy it back together and then used a washer so the screw would not counter
sink and crack the housing again.

Hope that helps other DIYers,

Marty STOC #7932
1995 ST1100

~~~

Posted by John Oosterhuis, STOC 1058:

Here's the part numbers needed for your ST1100s with 41mm forks (all but 96-02 ABSII/TCS models).  They appear to be available from Service Honda.  But with shipping you might as well get them from your local dealer.

51490-MN8-305  SEAL SET, FR. FORK [need 2, PN includes both oil and dust seals]

In case one or both of these bolts is frozen or spins and must be destroyed to remove, it's cheap insurance to have replacements on hand:
90116-383-721  BOLT, SOCKET (8MM)  [need 2, lower fork bolt]

The bolts' washers should be replaced in any case:
90544-283-000  WASHER (8MM)  [need 2, lower fork bolt copper crush washer]

Depending on your SSMST's mileage/usage, you may want to replace these:
51414-KCR-003  BUSH, GUIDE  [need 2, fork slider, supercedes: 51414-MN5-003]
51415-KCR-003  BUSH, SLIDER [need2, fork tube, supercedes: 51415-MM8-003]

You may need one or two of these (pry up your dust seals before ordering and see if they are rusty):
51447-KA4-711  RING  [fork seal stopper ring (spring clip)]

Here's some tips on doing the fork seals R&R:
http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=907.0

Here's how to borrow the tool kit (must register):
http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=983.0

~~~

Additional comments by John Oosterhuis, STOC 1058:

- The fork tube protectors normally don't have to be removed

- I recommend measuring the fork suspension fluid level with the tools provided in the kit (like any good tech would do, like the Service and Common Service manuals call for), versus just pouring in the 'capacity' quantity listed in the manuals.  When you change engine oil you don't just pour in the quantity mentioned in the manuals...

- LocTite© on plastic pieces is not a good idea, it can eat some plastics.