Aux and Battery Fuse Block Wiring ( ST1100 ) *

[KoTAOW]

Original article written by Tom Melnik, STOC 346:

Aux and Battery Fuse Block Wiring

I initially installed an Auxiliary Fuse Block as one of my first farkles over 14 years ago on my 1996 ST1100.

The original article was in the AOW section, but since then, my web page with all the pictures was taken down and lost:
http://www.stocrallies.com/st-riders/index.php?topic=3927.0

It was a 6 circuit fuse block mounted to the side of the battery.  

A similar installation can be seen here:


Over the many years, the fuse block has become inadequate with all the additional farkles.  I started to gang circuits together and also add additional lugs to the battery terminal.  The additional lugs on the battery become a nuisance and also I was never 100% sure of the contact point.

This Spring, I finally decided to take on the task of re-wiring the power circuits.

I kept the original 6 circuit fuse block on the battery, it has held up very well over the 14 years.  I pulled each fuse, smeared some dielectric grease on the terminals and reinstalled.  I also rechecked each circuit to be sure the fuse values were correct.  I also moved the 4-way circuit to a direct battery connections for emergency use along side the road.

My main objective was to install a new 6 circuit fuse block for just battery direct connections.  The only area I could find was in the tail cone.  Being a "cheap" person, I didn't feel like spending $35-$75 on a commercial weatherproof fuse block.  There are many different brands on the market and they each have their own advantages and disadvantages.  

An assortment of these types can be found here:
http://www.stocrallies.com/st-riders/index.php?topic=3927.msg30307#msg30307

I ended up using the same Buss© 6 circuit fuse block, available for around $9.50 from Advanced Auto or AutoZone.  I then searched around for a small Rubbermaid© container to hold the fuse block.  This was not only to provide some protection from the elements but also to keep the terminals from shorting out.

Buss 6 circuit fuse block = $9.50


Rubbermaid 1.5 cup container = $2.79


Nice snug fit of fuse block inside container.


Moving the fuse block to the tail cone presented it's own problems in wire gauge selection and fusing.  Also, I wanted NO additional terminals on the battery other than stock.  I therefor chose a point on the battery side of the 55 amp fusible link to pull off power.  I then used two individual 12 gauge wires, each fused at 40 amps to run back to the tail cone.  40 amps is the largest size ATC fuse available. I looked for a holder for the larger Maxi fuses, but couldn't find anything I liked that would fit the environment.  The next step would have been a 100 amp circuit breaker at $29.99.

NOTE:  12 gauge wire can handle around 20 amps when wrapped up along with other wires and twice that when in free air.

My PIAA's are running 110 watt bulbs and have two separate 20 amp fuses and wires for their power connection.  I didn't want to run these thru the new fuse block so I connected them to the #10-24 terminal on the input side.  This can be seen in the photos and schematic.

Terminals all wired up to fuse block.


All wired up and installed inside container.  
I had to drill two 1/2 inch holes on each side of container for wires.


I left extra wire so I could easily pull the fuse block and container out of Tail Cone for easy access.
NOTE:  Notice the Dick Seng oil cap wrench in the bottom of Tail Cone.  I never leave home with it.   :yes


Fits neatly inside Tail Cone along with some other circuitry.


With very little moisture reaching the Tail Cone and with the addition of the Rubbermaid© container, even less will reach the new fuse block.

I used shrinkable butt splices on every connection and also shrinkable tubing over any other connection for adequate protection.

Additional parts include the 40 amp fuses and fuse holders for the main connection from the battery to the new fuse block.  These are about $3.50 each.  12 gauge wire is around $0.50 a foot and I used at least 10-12 feet. Also, numerous butt splices, crimp on terminals, split wire loom and wire ties.

Here are how the circuits are connected:

Accessory Fuse Block
1)  FIAMM Horn
2)  Driving Lights
3)  Hot Grips
4)  AudioVox Cruise Control
5)  Datel Voltmeter\Garmin III+ GPS
6)  Third Brake Light

Battery Fuse Block
1)  Garmin 2730 GPS
2)  4-ways
3)  Electric Vest Socket
4)  PIAA's
5 ) HID's
 
~~~

Along with the addition of the battery fuse block, I also had the problem with too many ground wires to the battery terminal.  I solved this by installing a ground buss strip.  This was installed on the top of the inner fender and then running a large braided ground wire to the frame. The ground buss terminal block and shorting strip can be found at Radio Shack or any auto store. IE: Advanced Auto or AutoZone.

Ground buss.


Now I have just OEM connections to the battery and easy access to fuses.

Wiring diagram attached below: