Steering Stem Bearing Replacement using R&R Tool Kit ( ST1100 ) *

[KoTAOW]

Written by David Goguen, STOC 6786:

Steering Stem Bearing Replacement using R&R Tool Kit

This is an 'after action' report following my recent ST1100 steering stem bearing replacement job using the Honda ST1100/1300 Steering Stem Bearing R&R Tool Kit available from John Oosterhuis:
(http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=714.0).
[edit: updated link]

Through the use of these tools, I was able to successfully complete this project; my bike's steering and overall responsiveness has improved dramatically--I can definitely feel the difference! Thank you, John, for making this kit available to us ST riders!

Some 'background' information:  It may be helpful to know that that this was my first time performing a bearing replacement of any sort (i.e., I had no prior experience from which to pull).  The bike is a 1999 Honda ST1100 (ABS model) with 125K miles on it. I contacted CBR Bearings of Fallbrook, CA, and I purchased a set of tapered roller bearings (includes both upper and lower bearings, races, and dust seals). Charlie, the owner there, was very informative and gave me some added confidence in going with tapered roller bearings over the (OEM) ball bearings. A friend of mine in the bearing business most of his life recommended staying away from Chinese bearings due to quality control issues he believes exists in them. The bearings from CBR Bearings are high quality Japanese bearings.

Insight I gained, pointers to pass along:

1) It is hard to imagine what it would be like trying to do this job without the aid of the special tools in the kit. In particular, IMO it would be nearly impossible, for example, to get the races inserted into the stem neck properly (without possibly damaging the neck and/or the races)...and the lower bearing onto the steering stem...without using special tools like the ones contained in the kit (the threaded race driver tool, and lower bearing driver tool, respectively). Also, the notched tool for loosening and torquing the adjustment nut and locking nut. My advice to anyone thinking about trying to do a steering bearing replacement without using the proper set of tools: don't.

2) I had no prior experience 'hanging' brake calipers/lines, and I was surprised at how heavy those are, relatively speaking. This was the one step I did not 'think through' before starting the work; I fumbled around, as an example of what happens when you try to 'rush through' a step before understanding what you're about to do. In other words, have your rope, cord, bungee--whatever it is that you plan on using for purposes of suspending the brakes--readily on hand...and know exactly from what points on the frame, etc, you plan on suspending the works from. I finally got it right, but it required me having to momentarily reattach the brakes, etc., before being able to proceed. Take your time and understand each step... and the series of steps involved...before making each new 'move'.

3) I would recommend following the advice about putting the two 'new' races, along with the steering stem (after having removed the 'old' lower bearing from it) into a cold freezer for half an hour (or longer if time permits) before attempting to set the new races into the neck or the new lower bearing onto the stem.

4) Although this 'point' has nothing directly to do with replacing bearings, I feel it's worth mentioning. Since the job required removal of the front forks, I decided to take the opportunity to change the fork oil. (There were signs of leakage anywhere, so I assumed that the seals were still okay.)  All I can say is, 'WOW!' -- what a difference changing the oil made in the suspension. I have now become a believer in changing fork oil (which, in the past, I neglected to do). From now on, I plan to include fork oil changes as part of my regular maintenance routine truly makes a big difference!

5)  The last point I would like to pass along pertains to the pre-load torque setting to use for the steering bearing adjustment nut. THIS POINT ONLY APPLIES WHEN REPLACING OEM BALL BEARINGS WITH TAPERED ROLLER BEARINGS.  When doing my initial 'homework' regarding performing a bearing replacement, I was unable to uncover any 'agreed upon' torque value to use as a 'final setting' on the steering bearing adjustment nut when tapered roller bearings are being used (as opposed to ball bearings).  The reason for this is because the OEM bearings are ball bearings--not tapered rollers; Honda's Service Manual provides torque settings for original equipment (ball bearings) and not for taper rollered bearings, of course. When delving in a bit deeper, though, I discovered something interesting: the aftermarket tapered roller bearings for ST1100 (and, BTW, ST1300) are exactly the same as those for replacing OEM stem bearings in both the Honda Goldwing 1500 and Honda CBR--both which have tapered roller bearings as their original equipment). For the (OEM) tapered roller bearings, the Goldwing service manual calls for 14 ft-lbs on the adjustment nut (after  final 'seating'/rotating procedure using a torque setting of 29 ft-lbs). For the CBR, I did not have a CBR manual handy, but I noticed a couple of Internet postings on the subject where CBR owners also made reference to the '14 ft-lbs' setting. Good enough for me. So, that is the torque setting (14 ft-lb) I chose to use for final setting on the adjustment nut

To conclude:  Feel the job was a total success.  I believe that anyone who can following instructions, who possesses and knows how to use general shop tools, and who has at their disposal the tools from the R&R kit, should be able to replace their ST1100's steering stem bearings. Working solo, not counting the work related to changing the fork oil, the total time I spent on the bearing replacement work was probably around 6 hours (steady pace but plenty of breaks). I believe a real wrench (which I am not) working in the right 'shop' setting could do this job in a couple hours or so. In either case, it will be time and effort well spent if your steering bearings are in need of replacement.

David Goguen