Seat Stuck, won't unlatch with key. ( ST1100 ) *

[KoTAOW]

Question by Charlie Fegan:

I'm having a problem removing the seat from my 1992 ST.

I've never had a problem before this week and I've owned this bike since Sept 2008.

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Comments by WJ Bertrand:

Try pressing down on the back of the seat and turning the key simultaneously.  Happened to me once too.

If you can get hold of the inner part of the cable, try pulling on it with a pair of pliers while pressing down and then lifting the rear of the seat.  Maybe the little bolt that holds the latch mechanism has fallen out?

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Comments by Graham Reed:

Is the latch mechanism failing to unlatch?  Can you tell?  I can usually lift mine just clear of the latch and release the key while it is still hooked up under the cross-bar mid seat, then lift it off.  Try and keep the directions of the two major retaining features of the seat in your mind as you fiddle with it; the key-operated latch over the rear tire, and those hooks.

I can't think of anything under the back of the seat that could jam or catch.

Make sure you can tug the back of the seat up; hit it with the key, make sure it comes up a bit farther.  Then you can start working it backwards to release the hooks up front.

If the cable release from the lock to the catch has failed... hmmm... if you get enough of the plastic shifted, you should be able to reach something in to operate the latch.  Maybe up around the "flaps" in the saddle bag area.

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Comments and pictures by Tom Melnik:

The latch mechanism has a hook that faces down that holds the seat bracket.  It's possible that the hook has so much pressure on it that it can't slide past the bracket when it is engaged.  You might need to press DOWN on the rear of the seat, then turn key, then pull UP on the back of the seat to get it to release, then slide seat towards the rear to get front plastic bracket disengaged.

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Here are some pictures.  I had a hard time getting the latch mechanism out from under the cross member.  
Hopefully it goes back in a lot easier or I'm in for a couples hours of cussing.

NOTE:  Left click on pictures for higher resolution from Webshots page.

Top view with latch engaged ( no key )


Top view with latch disengaged ( key turned )


View of cable end after latch mechanism removed.


Underside of seat showing bracket that latch grabs and holds.


Side view of bracket attached to seat.


Wider view of seat bracket and also rubber bumpers on each side.


Fiche view of latch mechanism.


Side view of complete mechanism removed from under cross member.
Shown in latched position.


Top view of latch mechanism.


Another view.


Disassembled view.
Nothing really holds the small metal square in place after mechanism removed from cross member.


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Comments by Michael Martin:

I believe the small metal square is originally not formed flat.  It is put into place and then flattened so it will serve as a retainer for the internal latch parts.  After the latch is installed on the bike, the plate doesn't do much of anything.

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Comments by Don Feyma:

I found that the seat was more likely to be jammed too far up, putting too much pressure on the latch mechanism which in turn would cause it to balk at sliding back. In fact, on a couple of aftermarket seats I had, I needed to put washers in the fastenings for the U clamp under the seat to allow them to extend down further into the latch, or the latch would either be way too tight or wouldn't latch at all.   When you do get this loose, a little assessment of that might be in order.

The pictures posted above really illustrate why this happens and why so many advise to push down on the seat while turning the key.

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Comments by John OoSTerhuis:

The bolt holding the latch mechanism to the frame cross-member may be loose, not unheard of.  Worst case, it might have come completely unscrewed.  The latch/cable mechanism isn't broken, it just can't move far enough to release the wire bail/loop on the bottom of the saddle.

If all else fails:

Cut a 'U' in the inner fender with a sharp, sturdy knife or other tool.  Guess now that I think of it, I'd probably use my Dremel with the mini circular saw blade.  Bend the 'flap'/'door' that you've made back, shine a flashlight in there and pull the cable end with a needle-nose pliers, releasing the saddle.  As I mentioned, this technique has been used successfully before.

Then secure the latch properly (locktite); and seal your fender cut with RTV or sumsuch, or back with scrap plastic or metal and a couple of sheetmetal screws.

[KoTAOW]

Reinstalling seat latch mechanism:

First, the mechanism needs disassembled.  The slide part then needs reattached to the cable end.  This can only be done towards the rear of the cross member completely blind.  Hold the slider at a 90 degree angle to the cable and parallel to the cross member.  Slip the cable end into the hole and make sure the cable falls into the slot, then rotate 90 degrees so that it stays attached.

Second, insert the spring, the slider and finally the small brass colored square piece and press into place to hold the internals together.

Third, the fun part, the whole mechanism needs to be squeezed back under the cross member and above the inner plastic rear fender.  It took me three tries at this step. The latch mechanism needs to be held in the correct position with the bolt hole UP.  If you try turning it over to get it under the cross member, I guarantee it will fall apart and you'll have to start over.  BTDT. I finally got a large screwdriver, pried the plastic inner fender down, while sliding the latch mechanism into place.  Make sure the cable end stays attached and the small brass colored plate stays pressed into place.

Fourth, screw in the mounting bolt ( apply some Loctite© on threads) and make sure the alignment pin is into the hole on the cross member.

Fifth,  spray some white lithium grease into the latch hole and cycle the key a couple times.

Sixth, install the seat and check to make sure it pops back off.

Submitted by Tom Melnik